Tomorrow it's to the Lima Airport for a plane to Iquitos at 4 AM. Tonight it's a mediocre keyboard-organ player in the restaurant of a tourist hotel here in Miraflores whose sound permeates the hotel. When Americans arrive he plays themes to American shows. The rooms are built around a courtyard about five stories up. At least he's a musician who has a job. That matters. Sound travels: a light motorbike revs up and disappears, couples walking the street, a bus load of Austrian tourists checks in. I arrived a few hours earlier from Cusco and the ever-presence of Inca architecture and spirit. There's more, much more and I will backtrack write as I can. All I know for now is that I didn't sleep much last night in the bare but warm-spirited Hotel Los Ninos in Cusco. The high altitude headache was partly responsible, and the pondering over the day's journey through the Sacred Valley. Nothing much changes at all.